16 June 2011

Today.

So many very special things happened today.

For the first time, I wore an anako, the indigenous dress here. I borrowed my neighbors, and felt like a princess as I was literally dressed in an intricately embroidered shirt, a long white underskirt and black overskirt that was folded around me and then cinched with a belt that was almost as tall as me. Then came the necklace, the scarf that goes over your shoulder, and the long strings of beads that get wound around your wrists. Throughout the morning, I was complimented by my many, many friends here. Tourists and indigenous people alike took pictures of me (not gonna lie, this was awkward) and it was interesting to see how strangers related to me differently...they didn't slow their Spanish down, or look at me like a tourist (although I was obviously still a gringita).

The reason for this dressing up was that, at this time of year, Otavalo celebrates Inti Raymi, an indigenous tradition. This time of year is when the corn, a staple of the diet, is planted, and the celebration especially honors the sun god Inti (Summer Solstice is the official celebration). The way they celebrate is by dancing San Juan (the circle dance), stomping the ground and being surrounded in this huge mob of people and music and colors.

The school dances San Juan in this huge public procession. There were two bands, one of relatives of one of the students, and one made of some of the high school students. Everyone came dressed in anakos, or gauchos (big hairy chaps with leather cowboy hats), or this mask that covers your whole head. Parents lined the sidewalks, taking photos and bringing water or juice to their kids as they got tired throughout the 6 block parade that goes from the Bahai institute to the town center, a park, and back.. At every intersection, I heard "vuelta! vuelta!"* and the parade swirled around the musicians and the kids, some bewildered, some totally into it, and some (Kendy) whining and going to sit in the truck, get swept into the circle dance.

Halfway through this parade, the camioneta from the radio started leading the parade. And Mauro was sitting in the back seat! I think my past week or so here alone has really made me feel the importance of a good friend. It was so nice to just fall into step with him and have it be completely natural. And Kendy's whining abruptly stopped (Mau is Kendy's big brother, best friend, and idol).

Then I came home and packed, talking with Mau and entertaining Kendy. I watched a movie (Mulan) and made a fort with Kendy and Dagmar, and got to pretend I was their big sister/mother/mischievous baby(my favorite). And then I went to go eat at the institute with my neighbors. Except that was just a cover for the surprise goodbye party that was waiting for me.

My party was perfect. From the moment that I walk in to see Pepe's "caught in the act" face lit up by the computer screen (the only light there) and hear a giggle, to dancing with Carlos as he does his techno-robot-Shakira style dancing. It was wonderful. I was given beautiful gifts: a picture and note from one of my 2o students, a shirt with a picture of Kendy and Dagmar (do you know what I'm wearing on the plane? Oh yeah) and the community gave me a hat and gloves to "keep me warm in Alaska," which fit me perfectly!

I also got a gigantic wooly Inti Raymi mask from the community. I think the people here know me pretty well!

Even better than the gifts, though, were the words that each person said to me. I almost cried, although as I did not want to. The caring that people have here...the love that they can show to someone who has been here such a short time: these people are my family. From Kendy, who asks me to come play zombies with him while I'm dancing with someone else, to Freddy, whose eyebrows say more than his words. I was just surrounded by this engulfing care that the community shows.


Today was a good day.


*turn! turn!

3 comments:

  1. I love your dress! And I'm glad you're having a good last few days. And I really like that mask. And oh yeah, did I mention that I CAN'T WAIT TO SEE YOU!?

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  2. Hi :)
    Love, rachel

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  3. Wow. That was a short comment. :) My bad.
    You're amazing Valerie...a true inspiration and a perfect example of one not ever missing out on any opportunity in life. You strive for happiness in all you do and that shows a lot about your true character...from helping others...to finding something to smile about every day. I truly hope you have enjoyed your year in Ecuador. I know I am a wee bit jealous :) but even more excited for everything you have experience over the past "human gestation period". Lol. You're a hoot.
    I will see you at home July 10th my lovely friend!! Stay awesome!
    -Rachel

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